Contained within this wig making tutorial is an insight into wig darts. When creating a full lace foundation it is necessary to take flat pieces of net and smooth them over a curved shape when creating any wig base. The triangular pleats made in the net are know in the wig making industry as darts.  They accomplish exactly the same thing when they are used in dress making.  When the darts are formed correctly and sewn down, they will create a fitted foundation that will hug the artist’s head with perfect tension. This wig making tutorial will take a look at the process of creating perfect darts in a lace wig foundation.

Wig Making Tutorial: Forming The Dart

The function of a dart in wig making is to allow the flat net to be moulded around the head form which results in tension being created. This in turn will lead to a correctly fitting wig base. Simply put, when ever the edge of the net lifts from the head form, a dart is required. To form the dart just pinch the net in the area that lifts from the block and then fold it down until a triangle shaped pleat is formed.

Don’t Force The Issue

I have discovered these top tips along the way during my work as a wig maker and thought I would share them in this wig making tutorial. They work and by using them it will ensure an easy time when forming darts in the wig.

The number one tip is not to force the dart. Guaranteed to prove difficult to the perfectionists out there who crave symmetry. Forcing a dart somewhere on the net base where the fabric doesn’t want to fold will almost certainly make the task much more difficult. Forced darts usually end up making the final pleat far too long and loose.

Where the foundation lace lifts from the head form is exactly where the dart needs to be placed. I can assure you that by putting the dart where It wants to go will result in smaller pleats that lie flatter on the foundation. Listen to your fabric people. Listen to it and it will tell you!

Once the pleat has been folded, just pop in a pin at the base and then another one at the tip to secure.  Then it is time to:

Whip It Baby!

Whip using invisible nylon thread from the base of the dart. Start from the side where it raises from the foundation lace. Travel up the edge until the tip is reached. Turn that block around and continue down the other side untill reaching the base again. Definitely the easiest method I have found and it results in one neatly whipped pleat. BOOM!

Wig Making Tutorial Tip

Sometimes the problem doesn’t stem from the root but right from the tip!

On occasion, the point of the dart may not want to play ball and submit. Through bitter experience I have struggled when whipping the darts. Quickly finding out that the top of the pleat keeps traveling up the net and gets longer and longer. Usually the point will go off kilter too, adding insult to injury. GRRRRRRRR!

Wig making tutorial top tip that will curb your frustration:

At the tip of the pleat, run a pin along the inside fold of your dart.

Push the pin into the block.

Take a second pin and grab the point of the dart.

Run the pin over the first one which will stretch the net at the point of the dart.

Securely pin the second pin into the block and remove the first.

HEY PRESTO!

A tight pointy point on the pleat.

Here is a video from my Instagram page to show you exactly how the two pin trick it is achieved. A picture will say more than a thousand words (and make more sense too):

Final Words

In conclusion from my wig making tutorial guide on darts:

Don’t force a pleat where a pleat does not want to go.

Start from your base on the flappy side and work up and over the point to the other side.

Use the two pin top tip at the point of the pleat.

Give these wig making tutorial tips a test drive and I promise you that your darts will get straight and to the point. Happy wig making and let me know how you get on folks.

Visit the WAM Studio YouTube Channel for more top tips in wig making

Philip Carson-Sheard

Wig Making Classes

WAM Studio

London